Climbing 'Nippel ohne Ende' (UIAA 6+) in the magnificent Ankogel Group is an unforgettable alpine experience. This classic route, whose name playfully translates to 'Nipple Without End,' lives up to its reputation as a long, demanding, and incredibly rewarding multi-pitch climb.
Located amidst the dramatic high-alpine granite peaks of the Ankogel, the route offers sustained climbing on mostly excellent, grippy rock, characteristic of the region. Climbers can expect a variety of challenges: technical slabs requiring precise footwork, strenuous cracks demanding strength, and sometimes exposed traverses. The grade of 6+ ensures that the climbing is consistently engaging and requires good technique and endurance.
A defining feature of 'Nippel ohne Ende' is its length and the continuous nature of the difficulties. While belays are generally well-equipped with bolts, the pitches often require a solid rack of trad gear for protection. The exposure is palpable, providing breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding glaciers and peaks.
Undertaking this climb demands a full alpine day: an early start, a significant approach, efficient rope management, and a long descent. Weather conditions in the high mountains can change rapidly, adding to the seriousness of the endeavor. For experienced alpine climbers seeking a true test of skill and an immersive high-mountain adventure, 'Nippel ohne Ende' is an absolute must-do, offering a deep sense of accomplishment amidst stunning natural beauty.