Schlim. Anfang, böses Ende

Climbing 'Schlimm. Anfang, böses Ende' (grade 8+/9-) on the Badener Turm is a quintessential Elbsandstein experience, and a formidable challenge indeed. Aptly named, 'Bad Beginning, Bad End' perfectly describes the route's character. The start demands immediate precision and commitment, often involving delicate friction moves on the smooth sandstone or a technical sequence with a high first bolt, testing your mental game right from the ground. The middle section might offer a brief reprieve but remains sustained, often traversing exposed features or navigating subtle holds. The 'bad end' truly lives up to its name: a final, often pumpy or highly technical crux before the anchor, where fatigue and the intimidating exposure of the Elbsandstein cliffs combine to demand your absolute best. Protection typically consists of traditional Elbsandstein ring bolts, which are often sparsely placed, demanding significant lead-out distances and a strong head. No chalk is allowed, forcing reliance on natural grip and impeccable technique. This route isn't just a physical test; it's a deep dive into the unique ethics and history of Saxon climbing, a true battle of will and skill that leaves a lasting impression.

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