The 'Umgehung der böhm. Masse' (Circumvention of the Bohemian Massif), graded a formidable 6+/7- (UIAA), stands as a highly respected and challenging route within the scenic Gutenstein Alps. This climb is not merely about conquering individual pitches; it's a testament to sustained effort, demanding both precise technique and robust endurance.
Carved into the distinctive limestone of the region, the route offers a diverse range of climbing – from delicate slab moves requiring superb balance to powerful sequences on steep walls with small crimps and pockets. The name itself suggests a journey, and indeed, sections may involve exposed traverses or navigating intricate features. The crux often demands full commitment, pushing climbers to their limit with intricate footwork and strong finger strength.
While generally well-equipped with bolts, the spacing can sometimes feel generous, especially in easier sections, adding a mental challenge to the physical one. This necessitates a solid lead head and confidence in one's abilities.
Reaching the top is incredibly rewarding, not just for the satisfaction of overcoming the technical difficulties, but also for the breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding alpine landscape. The descent typically involves rappelling down the route or utilizing a designated hiking trail, depending on the specific summit configuration.
'Umgehung der böhm. Masse' is a definitive test piece for experienced climbers seeking a memorable and demanding alpine sport climbing experience in the heart of Austria.