Climbing 'Abgespeckter Riss' (German for 'Lean Crack'), graded 5+ (UIAA) in the Dachstein Mountains, is a rewarding experience that combines physical challenges with stunning alpine scenery. This route, often described as a classic for its grade, offers a good mix of crack climbing and face climbing, typically requiring a solid understanding of crack techniques, including hand jams, finger locks, and occasionally off-width maneuvers.
The rock is generally solid, though some sections can be polished due to its popularity. The route's protection is reported to be generally good, with well-placed bolts where needed, though some may find it prudent to supplement with their own gear in certain sections, particularly in the crack itself. Be prepared for exposure, especially higher up, as the views are breathtaking but the drops are significant.
Given its popularity, 'Abgespeckter Riss' can be crowded, especially on weekends during good weather. Early starts are recommended to avoid queues and ensure a more enjoyable climb. Proper preparation, including appropriate gear, weather awareness, and a good understanding of your own abilities, is crucial for a safe and successful ascent. The approach can vary depending on the specific starting point and the conditions of the mountain trails. Always check local conditions and avalanche risk before heading out.
In summary, 'Abgespeckter Riss' is a well-regarded and enjoyable climb that provides a great introduction to Dachstein rock climbing at this grade. It demands respect, good technique, and appropriate planning but rewards climbers with a memorable alpine experience.