Recently, I had the privilege of tackling 'No Country for Old Men,' a renowned route in the stunning Gutenstein Alps. At a grade of 7- (French system), it's a climb that demands respect and technical prowess. The route snakes its way up a beautifully textured limestone face, offering a challenging yet rewarding experience.
The crux move, for me, was navigating a delicate sequence of crimps and smears on slightly overhanging terrain. Precise footwork and unwavering commitment were essential to overcome this section. The exposure added another layer of excitement, with breathtaking views of the surrounding alpine landscape stretching out below.
The rock quality was generally excellent, providing solid holds where they were needed most. However, careful route finding was necessary to avoid any loose rock and ensure a safe ascent. After a sustained effort, reaching the anchor felt incredibly satisfying. 'No Country for Old Men' is a climb that truly lives up to its reputation – a test of skill, strength, and mental fortitude in a truly spectacular setting. I highly recommend it to any climber looking for a challenging and memorable alpine experience.