Police One

Climbing 'Police One' (grade 9-) on the Hochkogel NW Wall is an experience that perfectly blends demanding physical exertion with breathtaking alpine scenery. This striking route, graded 9- (UIAA), cuts a bold line up the impressive grey limestone of the Hochkogel's northwest face.

The approach itself is a journey, leading through serene alpine meadows before the sheer, imposing rock face dominates the view. Once at the base, the scale of 'Police One' becomes apparent. The initial pitches often involve delicate slab climbing, quickly transitioning into more sustained, vertical sections that demand precise footwork and good friction management.

The true character of the route reveals itself higher up, particularly on the namesake crux pitch. This demanding section typically features powerful, sustained moves on small crimps and pockets, requiring exceptional finger strength and mental fortitude. The rock quality throughout is generally excellent, offering solid, well-featured limestone, though the exposure steadily increases with every meter gained.

From the higher pitches, the views are simply magnificent, sweeping across the surrounding peaks of the Hochschwab group and the valleys below – a well-earned reward for the sustained effort. It’s a climb that requires full concentration from start to finish, not just on the technical difficulties but also on managing multi-pitch logistics and the ever-present sense of verticality.

Reaching the top of 'Police One' is a profound accomplishment – a blend of physical triumph, mental resilience, and the sheer beauty of the alpine environment. The descent typically involves rappelling the route, which, like the ascent, demands careful planning and coordination. It’s a classic route that truly earns its reputation, leaving climbers with a lasting sense of achievement and unforgettable memories of a high-alpine sport climbing adventure.

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