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Hexenmeister - Hochschwab Südwand

Austria | Styria | Hochschwab Group | Hochschwab south face

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Overview

Grade: 6-

Total time: 9 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 375m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 12

The 'Hexenmeister' is a highly respected classic alpine rock climb located on the impressive Hochschwab South Face in Austria. Graded 6- (UIAA), it presents a significant but immensely rewarding challenge for climbers proficient in alpine environments. The route is renowned for its considerable length, varied climbing, and exposed sections that traverse prominent features of the majestic limestone wall. Climbers can expect a mix of slab climbing, crack systems, and airy positions, demanding both technical skill and alpine composure. While generally on good rock characteristic of the Hochschwab, it remains a serious alpine undertaking, requiring sound route-finding abilities and readiness for changeable mountain conditions. After topping out on the vast Hochschwab plateau, the descent typically involves a long but scenic hike down marked trails, often via the Gamsmauersteig. 'Hexenmeister' is widely considered one of the finest alpine routes of its grade in the Eastern Alps.

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