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Zauberlehrling - Hochschwab Südwand

Austria | Styria | Hochschwab Group | Hochschwab south face

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 10 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 4 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 385m

Rope Length: 55m

Quickdraws: 10

Climbing the 'Zauberlehrling' (Sorcerer's Apprentice) in the Hochschwab South Face is a truly classic and demanding multi-pitch alpine climb, graded 6+. This route is renowned for its sustained, exposed climbing on the characteristic, often excellent, Hochschwab limestone. Climbers can expect a mix of technical slab sections, crack systems, and sometimes airy traverses, demanding not only solid climbing technique at the grade but also good endurance and strong route-finding skills. As a serious alpine undertaking, it requires experienced climbers who are comfortable with long pitches, exposure, and potentially variable alpine weather conditions. The reward for this significant effort is a profound sense of accomplishment and breathtaking panoramic views of the Hochschwab plateau and the surrounding Styrian landscape. After topping out, the descent, often via the 'G'hackt' or other marked alpine paths, is itself a long and serious undertaking, requiring careful navigation. 'Zauberlehrling' is an unforgettable adventure for well-prepared alpine enthusiasts.

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