Overview
Grade: 6+
Total time: 3 hrs
Climbing time: 3 hrs
Approach time: 8 mins
Exit time: 20 mins
Show topo 
Length: 120m
Rope Length: 50m
Quickdraws: 13
Alpenmordor – Hohe Wand (6+): A serious and rewarding challenge.
The name 'Alpenmordor' itself evokes a sense of epic struggle within an alpine setting, and this 6+ route on the formidable Hohe Wand certainly lives up to its evocative title. It's a challenging, sustained ascent on classic Hohe Wand limestone, known for its excellent friction and intricate features.
The grade of 6+ indicates a varied test of technique, strength, and mental fortitude. Climbers can expect a mix of technical slabs demanding precise footwork, exposed traverses that add to the thrill, and perhaps some steeper, more powerful sections that require a good pump and confident moves. The 'Mordor' part might refer to the route's serious character, demanding respect and full concentration, or perhaps some of its more shaded, imposing sections that feel truly wild.
Climbing Alpenmordor is an immersive experience. Each pitch demands full attention, especially on the more exposed sections where the sheer drop beneath your feet adds a layer of exhilaration and focus. The rock quality is generally superb, providing reliable holds and opportunities for confident climbing, but the route's continuous nature means there's little room for complacency. The crux pitch, typical for a 6+, will likely involve a particularly tricky sequence – perhaps a delicate balance move, an athletic reach, or a sustained section requiring endurance.
Overcoming the challenges of Alpenmordor feels incredibly rewarding. Throughout the ascent, the panoramic views over the surrounding landscape of the Vienna Alps are spectacular, offering a breathtaking contrast to the intense focus required on the rock. Reaching the top after scaling 'Alpenmordor' leaves a profound feeling of accomplishment. It's a route that tests you physically and mentally, leaving you with lasting memories of a significant ascent on one of Hohe Wand's most aptly named and respected challenges. A true classic for those seeking a serious 6+ adventure.