Overview
Grade: 5
Total time: 3 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 30 mins
Exit time: 15 mins
Show topo 
Length: 125m
Rope Length: 50m
Quickdraws: 8
The 'Direkter Bergfreundesteig' on Hohe Wand is a classic and highly rewarding climbing route, graded V (UIAA). As its name suggests ('Direct Mountain Friends' Path'), it offers a straightforward yet engaging line up this prominent limestone massif near Vienna. The route is known for its diverse climbing, featuring a fantastic mix of slab climbing, technical cracks, and sometimes airy, exposed traverses. Expect sustained climbing that demands solid technique, good footwork, and a comfortable head for heights, especially on the more exposed pitches where the views open up dramatically.
The rock quality is generally good, typical of Hohe Wand limestone, though some sections might be polished from decades of ascents. Each pitch presents its own unique challenge, moving from delightful friction slabs to more demanding sections that might require precise stemming or a bit of jamming. The exposure increases significantly as you gain height, culminating in breathtaking panoramic views over the Vienna Basin and the surrounding Wienerwald.
Completing the 'Direkter Bergfreundesteig' is a memorable experience, a true Hohe Wand classic that perfectly balances challenge with enjoyment. It's a must-do for climbers comfortable at the grade looking for a significant and scenic day out. Descent is typically via a marked hiking trail or an easier via ferrata/climbing path from the summit, leading back to the base.