Overview
Grade: 6+
Total time: 3 hrs
Climbing time: 3 hrs
Approach time: 25 mins
Exit time: 15 mins
The Neuer Gößnitzersteig is a renowned climbing route on the Hohe Wand, a prominent mountain in the Gutenstein Alps of Lower Austria. This revitalized classic offers climbers a blend of historical significance and modern safety features.
Route Overview:
Difficulty: The route is rated 6+ UIAA, indicating a challenging climb with some demanding sections.
Length: Approximately 225 meters of climbing, with an elevation gain of about 380 meters.
Climbing Duration: Typically completed in 2 to 3 hours, depending on experience and conditions.
Approach: From the parking area near the Totenköpfl, descend a few meters on the road and then ascend the marked trail (blue dots) to the base of the wall. The entrance is approximately 60 meters west of the Totenköpfl, marked by a distinctive gully.
Route Characteristics:
The Neuer Gößnitzersteig is a revitalized version of the original route established in 1924 by Gößnitzer, Habeler, and Leichtfried. The modern ascent, updated by Behm and Witala in 2022, features several notable pitches:
Pitch 1: A 50-meter section requiring 10 quickdraws.
Pitch 6: A challenging overhang rated 6+ UIAA.
Pitch 8: An earthy section with some scree.
The route includes a mix of rock climbing and scrambling, with some sections requiring aid climbing techniques. The final overhang is mandatory at 6+, but climbers can opt to exit via the Köpfltravers 5 in the last two pitches.
Equipment and Safety:
Climbers should be equipped with standard climbing gear, including a helmet, harness, and a 50-meter single rope. The route is well-protected with bolts, but due to its length and exposure, climbers should have prior experience with alpine climbing and be prepared for variable weather conditions.
Descent:
After completing the climb, descend via the Köpfltravers 5 or the Gaisersteig, both of which lead back to the base of the wall. The descent typically takes about 30 minutes.
Additional Information:
The Hohe Wand area offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for different skill levels. For those interested in exploring more, the "Oh Otto" route is another popular climb in the area.
Location
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