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Overview

Grade: 5

Start at the southern tip of the Fortress, in line with the ceiling. Up the wall to just below the ceiling. Take the upper of the two cracks leading upwards to the left, following the pitons across the ceiling to a ledge. Traverse right along it, below the overhanging crack. Up the crack, following the pitons, over the overhang and along the summit blocks to the lower platform.

Danger of large blocks collapsing on the second climber. Climbing is prohibited due to the danger of large blocks collapsing on the second climber. (P. Bořil, O. Holouš 1968 ???)

Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature Conservation Document: Declaration 1991, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy (Protected Landscape Area Žďárské vrchy Hills)

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area
- Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves)
- The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice:
- Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes
- Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration
- Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration
- Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration

Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors.
OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed on Paličatá all year round, on Tvrz from July 16th to February 28th. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy - descent by rappelling only.

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