UFO

The ascent leads roughly through the middle of the wall over the "cross" (a horizontal edge of overhangs and a vertical line of indentations and a corner form a cross-like feature), which is located about 2/3 up the wall. A landmark for approaching the base of the Wall of Heavens is the Training Wall, located in the (W) area above the hut, about 20m from the tourist path, approximately 15m high, with a metal structure at its top for practicing falls. We reach the top of this wall by traversing left or right. From there, we go about 20m left up to a grassy terrace with trees. This is the start of the UFO route. From the center of the terrace, go straight up a grassy wall for about 9m to the 1st piton (1st belay station). (It is also possible to reach here from the left edge of the terrace, 4m up a corner and 6m traversing along a grassy ledge to the piton). Continue up a slabby wall by friction diagonally upwards for about 8m to a prominent boulder (protection) below a band of overhangs, and from there 2m traverse back to the right into a notch below a small overhang (piton). Go straight 5m over it to the 2nd piton (2nd belay station). From there, along a crack slightly right for about 4m to the 3rd piton. From there, left along a crack about 5m up (piton) and traverse 2m diagonally right into the cross (cross = indentation with a ledge) to the 4th piton (3rd belay station). Up through the indentation for about 2m (piton) and down a sloping ramp around the 5th piton along the wall, slightly left for about 8m to a slabby wall. Here, turn back diagonally right, 15m up into a prominent grassy corner. Follow it for 5m to its end and then slightly right for 8m to prominent rock blocks to the 6th piton (4th belay station = rappel point).

Location