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Schweizerführe - Grand Capucin

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Overview

Grade: 7

Total time: 7 hrs

Climbing time: 7 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 570m

Rope Length: 60m

Climbing "Schweizerführe - Grand Capucin" (grade 7) is an experience of a lifetime. This iconic route ascends the sheer east face of the Grand Capucin, a majestic granite spire in the Mont Blanc massif. It's a demanding climb, requiring excellent rock technique, solid mental fortitude, and the ability to handle exposure. The route itself is characterized by sustained vertical climbing on mostly solid granite, featuring cracks, dihedrals, and occasional face climbing. Key sections include the intimidating 'Rebuffat Crack,' named after the legendary climber Gaston Rebuffat, and the final summit pitches that lead to breathtaking 360-degree views of the surrounding Alps. Despite its relatively short length (around 450 meters), the commitment is significant due to the remote location, alpine conditions, and the inherent difficulty of the climbing. Successful ascent requires careful planning, acclimatization, and perfect weather. It's a true test of alpinism and a badge of honor for any climber who reaches its summit.
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