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Spaltenzone - Buchstein

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Overview

Grade: 7+

Length: 300m

The 'Spaltenzone' route on the Buchstein is a highly respected and challenging multi-pitch climb located in the Gesäuse mountains of Austria. Graded 7+ (UIAA VII+ or French 7b/7b+), it represents a significant undertaking for experienced alpine climbers. As its name suggests, 'Spaltenzone' – meaning 'Fissure Zone' – this route often navigates through intricate crack systems, chimneys, and exposed slabs on excellent limestone.
Climbing 'Spaltenzone' demands not only strong technical skills and endurance but also a solid understanding of alpine environments and multi-pitch rope management. The exposure is considerable, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Gesäuse landscape. It's a classic route known for its sustained difficulties and requires careful preparation, including appropriate gear and a good weather window. A successful ascent of 'Spaltenzone' is a rewarding achievement, offering an unforgettable high-alpine rock climbing experience.
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