Overview
Grade: 6
Total time: 3 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 1 hour
Exit time: 15 mins
The "Quatschkopp" is a recently established multi-pitch climbing route on the Martinswand in the Karwendel mountain range near Innsbruck, Austria. First ascended in May 2023 by Kilian Lommer and Jakob Scheler, this route offers climbers a blend of technical challenges and scenic beauty.
Route Overview:
Difficulty: The route is rated 6 (UIAA), with an obligatory 5+ (UIAA) difficulty, indicating a moderate level of challenge suitable for climbers with intermediate experience.
Length: Approximately 160 meters of climbing, divided into five pitches.
Climbing Duration: Typically completed in around 1.5 hours, depending on the climber's experience and conditions.
Approach: The approach involves a 15-minute hike from the parking area to the base of the route.
"Quatschkopp" features well-protected climbing with bolts, offering a mix of technical sections and enjoyable passages. The route is characterized by a large "rain gutter" feature and ends just before an overhanging section.
Equipment and Safety:
Climbers should be equipped with standard multi-pitch climbing gear, including:
Helmet and Harness: Essential for safety.
70-meter Single Rope: Suitable for the route's length.
14 Quickdraws: For the bolted sections.
Personal Protective Equipment: Such as gloves and appropriate footwear.
The route is well-protected with bolts, but climbers should have prior experience with multi-pitch climbing and be prepared for variable weather conditions.
Descent:
After completing the climb, descend via abseiling over the route using a 70-meter single rope or double ropes. Be cautious of potential rockfall, especially in the second pitch area where the route crosses a scree-filled gully.
Additional Information:
The Martinswand area offers several climbing routes suitable for various skill levels. For those interested in exploring more, the "Botanik Grand Prix" is another popular climb in the area.