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Quatschkopp - Martinswand

Austria | Tyrol | Karwendel | Martinswand

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Overview

Grade: 6

Total time: 3 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 1 hour

Exit time: 15 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 160m

Rope Length: 70m

Quickdraws: 14

The "Quatschkopp" is a recently established multi-pitch climbing route on the Martinswand in the Karwendel mountain range near Innsbruck, Austria. First ascended in May 2023 by Kilian Lommer and Jakob Scheler, this route offers climbers a blend of technical challenges and scenic beauty.


Route Overview:

  • Difficulty: The route is rated 6 (UIAA), with an obligatory 5+ (UIAA) difficulty, indicating a moderate level of challenge suitable for climbers with intermediate experience.

  • Length: Approximately 160 meters of climbing, divided into five pitches.

  • Climbing Duration: Typically completed in around 1.5 hours, depending on the climber's experience and conditions.

  • Approach: The approach involves a 15-minute hike from the parking area to the base of the route.

    Route Characteristics:

"Quatschkopp" features well-protected climbing with bolts, offering a mix of technical sections and enjoyable passages. The route is characterized by a large "rain gutter" feature and ends just before an overhanging section.


Equipment and Safety:

Climbers should be equipped with standard multi-pitch climbing gear, including:

  • Helmet and Harness: Essential for safety.

  • 70-meter Single Rope: Suitable for the route's length.

  • 14 Quickdraws: For the bolted sections.

  • Personal Protective Equipment: Such as gloves and appropriate footwear.

The route is well-protected with bolts, but climbers should have prior experience with multi-pitch climbing and be prepared for variable weather conditions.


Descent:

After completing the climb, descend via abseiling over the route using a 70-meter single rope or double ropes. Be cautious of potential rockfall, especially in the second pitch area where the route crosses a scree-filled gully.

Additional Information:

The Martinswand area offers several climbing routes suitable for various skill levels. For those interested in exploring more, the "Botanik Grand Prix" is another popular climb in the area.

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