Quatschkopp - Martinswand

The "Quatschkopp" is a recently established multi-pitch climbing route on the Martinswand in the Karwendel mountain range near Innsbruck, Austria. First ascended in May 2023 by Kilian Lommer and Jakob Scheler, this route offers climbers a blend of technical challenges and scenic beauty.

Route Overview:

• Difficulty: The route is rated 6 (UIAA), with an obligatory 5+ (UIAA) difficulty, indicating a moderate level of challenge suitable for climbers with intermediate experience.

• Length: Approximately 160 meters of climbing, divided into five pitches.

• Climbing Duration: Typically completed in around 1.5 hours, depending on the climber's experience and conditions.

• Approach: The approach involves a 15-minute hike from the parking area to the base of the route.

  Route Characteristics:

"Quatschkopp" features well-protected climbing with bolts, offering a mix of technical sections and enjoyable passages. The route is characterized by a large "rain gutter" feature and ends just before an overhanging section.

Equipment and Safety:

Climbers should be equipped with standard multi-pitch climbing gear, including:

• Helmet and Harness: Essential for safety.

• 70-meter Single Rope: Suitable for the route's length.

• 14 Quickdraws: For the bolted sections.

• Personal Protective Equipment: Such as gloves and appropriate footwear.

The route is well-protected with bolts, but climbers should have prior experience with multi-pitch climbing and be prepared for variable weather conditions.

Descent:

After completing the climb, descend via abseiling over the route using a 70-meter single rope or double ropes. Be cautious of potential rockfall, especially in the second pitch area where the route crosses a scree-filled gully.

Additional Information:

The Martinswand area offers several climbing routes suitable for various skill levels. For those interested in exploring more, the "Botanik Grand Prix" is another popular climb in the area.

Location