SW wall diagonally left to the crack and up to the pinnacle. Right to the 1st ring. Up into the gully, through it and right onto the ledge under the overhang. Left and up to the 2nd ring. Up the arête to the 3rd ring, over the overhang along the crack into the cave. Slightly left over the overhang and up the wall to the 4th ring. Along the crack to the small balcony and right to the summit.
L. Vodháněl - J. Janků (1954): The ascent starts approximately in the middle of the SW wall over a wide belly to a pinnacle, from which we traverse right until we can reach a hole with our hands. From this hole, we climb up to the 1st ring. From there, first directly up to an arched hold (pinnacle), along which we traverse slightly right on a ledge and then again up into a large elongated hole, where we go back left to the second ring. From the ring, then up the left wall and higher along the notch to a smooth slab, where the 3rd ring is located. From there, up the overhanging wall to a wide shelf that crosses almost the entire wall. From the shelf, over another overhanging wall to a ring and further about two meters up. Here we turn right onto a large rock pinnacle and from there to the prominent clock. From the clock, we continue right and up the already receding wall to the summit.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA:
- use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover
- use only fixed protection and textile belay devices.
- keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds
- report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot
- do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation
- always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope
- magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors
- show your climbing license upon request
- first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area