Overview
Grade: 4+
The climb typically features a delightful mix of friction slabs, positive holds, and perhaps some intriguing cracks or chimneys, all characteristic of the local sandstone. Protection usually involves threading slings through 'hourglasses' (natural rock formations resembling an hourglass) or utilizing fixed rings, demanding a good understanding of traditional sandstone techniques. The setting on 'Rozpůlený hřeben' (Split Ridge) is equally captivating, providing superb views of the surrounding landscape, most likely the dramatic rock towns of Bohemian Paradise (Český ráj).
Reaching the summit of this iconic formation offers a rewarding panorama, a testament to a truly classic climb – not just a route, but an experience that embodies the spirit of Czech sandstone adventure: beautiful, engaging, and deeply satisfying.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature conservation document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area
- Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves)
- The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice:
- Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes
- Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration
- Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration
- Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration
Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors.
OVK: first ascents are prohibited
Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy
Location
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