The pre-dawn alarm shattered the silence, a familiar prelude to another adventure in the Totes Gebirge. Today's objective: 'Schief und schwer', a Grade 7 multi-pitch notorious for living up to its name. The approach, a crisp morning hike through dew-kissed alpine meadows, offered glimpses of the imposing limestone walls that would soon test our mettle.
Racking up at the base, the air was cool, charged with anticipation. From the first pitch, 'Schief und schwer' revealed its character. It wasn't just about difficulty; it was the *way* it was difficult – long, sustained sections of subtly overhanging rock, demanding precise footwork on tiny edges and powerful pulls on sparse holds. The 'schief' aspect manifested in a series of diagonal traverses across slick slabs, requiring unwavering balance and commitment, often with the ground falling away dizzyingly beneath our feet.
The cruxes were relentless, each move a puzzle to solve under pressure. There were sections where the only way forward seemed to be an awkward, high-stepping lunge, or a desperate crimp on a polished rail. My forearms screamed, but the focus was absolute – finding the rhythm, trusting the friction, placing gear efficiently. My climbing partner's calm belay and encouraging shouts were a constant anchor.
Mid-way up, a particularly exposed traverse opened up breathtaking vistas of the surrounding 'Dead Mountains' – a stark, beautiful panorama of jagged peaks and deep valleys, making the effort profoundly worthwhile. The feeling of being suspended hundreds of meters up, a tiny speck against the vastness, was both humbling and exhilarating.
Finally, pulling onto the sun-drenched summit ridge, a wave of relief and triumph washed over us. The views were boundless, the air crisp and clear. We savored the moment, the raw beauty of the Totes Gebirge stretching to the horizon. The descent, a series of careful rappels, allowed for reflection on the challenging yet incredibly rewarding journey. 'Schief und schwer' had pushed us, tested us, and ultimately, delivered an unforgettable alpine climbing experience in one of Austria's most spectacular ranges.