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Trzaska Smer - Triester Weg - Triglav

Slovenia | Julian Alps | Triglav

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Overview

Grade: 5

Total time: 10 hrs

Climbing time: 7 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 650m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 10

The 'Trzaska Smer' (also known as 'Triester Weg' or 'Trieste Route') is a legendary UIAA Grade V climb on the magnificent North Face of Triglav, Slovenia's highest peak. This classic, long, and demanding route offers varied climbing over several hundred meters, including exposed slabs, challenging cracks, and intricate chimneys. It requires solid multi-pitch climbing experience, good physical condition, and a full traditional rack. The ascent culminates on Triglav's summit. The descent typically follows one of the normal routes (e.g., via Triglavski Dom na Kredarici or Dom Planika pod Triglavom) back towards the Vrata valley, making it a significant full-day or even two-day mountaineering undertaking.
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