Overview
Grade: 7+/8-
Total time: 5 hrs
Climbing time: 4 hrs
Approach time: 30 mins
Exit time: 30 mins
The "Tick" is a fully bolted multi-pitch climbing route located in the Untere Diesbachwand area of the Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria. Established in May 2024 by Jan Kareš and Eva Karešová, this route offers climbers a blend of technical challenges and scenic beauty.
Route Overview:
Difficulty: The route is rated 6c, with an obligatory 6a+ (UIAA) difficulty, indicating a challenging climb suitable for experienced climbers.
Length: Approximately 195 meters of climbing, with an elevation gain of about 350 meters.
Climbing Duration: Typically completed in around 3 to 4 hours, depending on the climber's experience and conditions.
Approach: The approach involves a 30-minute hike from the parking area to the base of the route.
Route Characteristics:
"Tick" features six pitches with varying difficulties:
First Pitch: 5a, 20 meters, 4 quickdraws.
Second Pitch: 5c, 45 meters, 11 quickdraws.
Third Pitch: 5b, 13 meters, 5 quickdraws.
Fourth Pitch: 6b+, 37 meters, 11 quickdraws.
Fifth Pitch: 6a, 45 meters, 14 quickdraws.
Sixth Pitch: 6c, 35 meters, 11 quickdraws.
The route is well-protected with bolts, and all sections can be climbed using aid climbing techniques (A0) if necessary.
Equipment and Safety:
Climbers should be equipped with standard multi-pitch climbing gear, including:
Helmet and Harness: Essential for safety.
50-meter Single Rope: Suitable for the route's length.
Quickdraws: For the bolted sections.
Personal Protective Equipment: Such as gloves and appropriate footwear.
The route is fully bolted, but climbers should have prior experience with multi-pitch climbing and be prepared for variable weather conditions.
Descent:
After completing the climb, descend via the "Drill Fall" route, which involves abseiling back down the route.
Additional Information:
The Untere Diesbachwand area offers several climbing routes suitable for various skill levels. For those interested in exploring more, the "Drill Fall" route is another popular climb in the area
Climbing "Tick" on the Untere Diesbachwand is a rewarding experience for climbers operating in the 7+/8- grade range. The route likely features technical climbing, requiring precise footwork, good body positioning, and efficient use of small holds. Expect a sustained effort with potential cruxes that demand both strength and problem-solving skills. The rock quality on the Diesbachwand is typically good, providing solid friction. As with any alpine route, assessing the weather conditions and bringing appropriate gear is crucial. Check current conditions and any recent reports before heading out to ensure a safe and enjoyable climb.Location
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