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Capitan Pelinkovac - Anica kuk Stup west face - Paklenica

Croatia | Dalmatia | Velebit | Anića kuk

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Overview

Grade: 7+/8-

Total time: 4 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 1 hour

Exit time: 30 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 290m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 10

Climbing "Capitan Pelinkovac" (grade 7+/8-) on the Stup West Face of Anića kuk in Paklenica is a serious undertaking and a popular testpiece on this iconic wall. The route is known for its sustained difficulty, requiring a high level of technical skill, excellent physical endurance, and considerable mental fortitude. The Stup West Face is already a demanding environment, characterized by its exposed position, often challenging weather conditions, and the impressive scale of the wall. "Capitan Pelinkovac" adds another layer of complexity with its varied climbing styles, including demanding crimps, powerful overhangs, and delicate slab sections. Successful ascent of this route is a significant achievement in any climber's career, signifying mastery of a demanding and historically significant climb in one of Europe's most renowned climbing areas. Preparation is key: Climbers should be in excellent physical condition, familiar with the specific rock type and climbing style of Paklenica, and comfortable leading at the stated grade. Thorough research of the route's individual pitches and potential hazards is also strongly advised.
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