Climbing "Mai più la Guerre" (Never more war) in the Ankogel group is an experience that pushes the boundaries of alpine rock climbing. Graded 9+/10- UIAA, this route is a true test piece, placing it among the most demanding multi-pitch climbs in the Eastern Alps. The Ankogel group, known for its impressive granite and gneiss formations, provides a stunning yet rugged backdrop for this formidable ascent.
The route typically ascends steep, often vertical to slightly overhanging walls, demanding exceptional technical skill, endurance, and mental fortitude. Climbers can expect long, sustained pitches with intricate moves, requiring precision in footwork and confident use of often sparse protection. The exposure is immense, adding to the psychological challenge and the feeling of commitment required.
Beyond the sheer physical and technical demands, "Mai più la Guerre" offers a profound high-alpine adventure. The remote setting ensures solitude, allowing climbers to fully immerse themselves in the raw beauty of the mountains. From the wall, breathtaking panoramic views of glaciated peaks and deep valleys unfold, a reward for the arduous ascent. It's a full-day undertaking, requiring efficient rope work, excellent route-finding, and the ability to move quickly and safely in a high-alpine environment. Successfully completing this route is a major achievement, embodying the spirit of demanding alpine adventure and the profound satisfaction of conquering such an impressive natural challenge.