Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.

Last updated 2024-05-10

Grade 8+/9-

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
8+/9-
Length
40 m
Location

50.53230, 15.03257

Parking 475 m

50.52877, 15.02878

Along the NW route's crack to the nose and left (hourglass) behind the edge to the 1st ring. Wall to the 2nd ring, up into the nest and obliquely right to the 3rd ring. Along the edge to the hole (4th ring), directly up the wall or traverse right behind the edge to the 5th ring (wall book). Right and along the NW route to the summit.

Discover Orgasmus, a climbing route rated 8+/9-. The total length of this route is 40 meters. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Orgasmus.

Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP authority PLA Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 8+/9-)
8+/9-
Ztracená země
To the right of the route 'Mimo zákon' (Outside the Law) via a corner crack and fissure … Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Masiv starých časů
To the right of the route 'Anarchie' via cracks over 2 bolt hangers (BH) directly to the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Země žen
With the edge over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Morous
Via the Tita Orang route to the 2nd bolt. Diagonally right over the 3rd bolt to the edge,… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Kočičí stěna
To the left of the Kitaróni route up the wall to the 1st and 2nd bolt. Slightly right to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Loukovák
Through the middle of the NW wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
Other climbing routes in Balustráda
4-
Balustráda
On the plateau side, the starting block collapsed, making Stará cesta (Old Route) and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Balustráda
On the plateau side, the starting block collapsed, making Stará cesta (Old Route) and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Balustráda
From the block on the plateau side, wall via K into the notch and directly by crack to… Rock Climbing
6-
Balustráda
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Balustráda
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Balustráda
From the S edge, traverse in ledges left to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Balustráda
Wall to the crack, along it to the end, right and directly to the ring. Left to the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Balustráda
From the large overhang in the SW wall, a small crack in the ceiling over the overhang,… Rock Climbing
5+
Balustráda
Along the crack to the end, right to another crack and along it (ring) to the summit of…
9/9+
Balustráda
From the ledge two meters left of the start of the NW crack over the overhang and ring…