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Nové tetování, Černá jehla 7+/8-

Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise, Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky, Černá jehla

7+/8-

Rock Climbing

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 7+/8-

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
7+/8-
Rock Climbing
Location

50.53186, 15.03212

Parking 417 m

50.52877, 15.02878

Between the chimney and the edge on the SW side, jump to a ledge and up the overhanging wall over 3 rings to the balcony. Through the gully to the ring of the Normal Route and up it to the summit.
Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP authority PLA Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

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