Overview
Grade: 6
Total time: 2 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 30 mins
Exit time: 15 mins
Show topo 
Length: 100m
Rope Length: 60m
Quickdraws: 12
Climbing 'Via Donne di Cuori' on Cima Capi, overlooking Val di Ledro, is an experience that combines technical challenge with breathtaking panoramic views. Graded around 6 (typically UIAA VI or French 6a/b), this multi-pitch route is a significant undertaking for experienced climbers.
The route is celebrated for its excellent, often compact limestone, offering a diverse range of climbing. Climbers will encounter demanding slabs, interesting crack systems, and sometimes even small overhangs that require a good blend of technique, strength, and composure. While generally well-bolted, the '6' grade signifies sections that demand precise movement and a solid lead head. Each pitch presents its unique challenges, building anticipation for the next.
The exposure on 'Via Donne di Cuori' is palpable, increasing dramatically as you ascend. The verticality of Cima Capi provides a constant sense of airy detachment, with the glittering expanse of Lake Garda and the serene Val di Ledro stretching out below. This dramatic setting amplifies the exhilaration of the climb, making every move feel more significant.
Upon reaching the top, the sense of accomplishment is immense, rewarded by truly unforgettable vistas. The descent typically involves a series of abseils (rappels) down the route itself or a designated nearby line, bringing you back to the base, reflecting on an inspiring vertical journey. 'Via Donne di Cuori' is a classic in the area, highly recommended for those seeking a memorable alpine sport climbing adventure.