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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 4 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 30 mins

Exit time: 45 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 230m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 12

Climbing 'Il Disertore' on Cima Nodice (grade 6+) is more than just a rock climb; it's a profound journey into the history and the raw, untamed beauty of the Dolomites. Located within the Adamello-Brenta Natural Park, Cima Nodice stands as a silent sentinel, its walls bearing witness to past conflicts and the passage of time. The route's evocative name, 'The Deserter,' hints at its origins, possibly linked to the harsh realities of WWI, which heavily impacted this border region.

Graded 6+ (UIAA scale, or approximately 5.10c/d YDS), 'Il Disertore' is a classic multi-pitch traditional climb. It offers demanding yet immensely rewarding pitches, often on excellent, featured Dolomitic limestone. While belays are typically bolted, sections between them frequently require careful placement of traditional protection (cams, nuts), truly testing a climber's lead skills, route-finding ability, and mental fortitude. The exposure is significant, especially on the upper pitches, adding to the adventurous feel.

The ascent provides breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Brenta Group, the majestic Presanella, and Adamello glaciers – a testament to the high-mountain environment. It's an experience where the weather can change quickly, demanding respect and preparedness. Descent usually involves rappelling the route or utilizing a nearby path, still requiring attention even after the climbing is complete.

For those seeking a challenging blend of historical significance, stunning scenery, and engaging traditional climbing, 'Il Disertore' is an unforgettable adventure – a timeless route on a formidable peak that promises a truly immersive alpine experience.

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