Overview
Last updated 2024-05-11
Grade 6-
Climbing season
Restrictions in 6 month(s)
- Open
- Restricted
- Unknown
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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.
Difficulty
6-
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow Textile belay Vertical wall
Along a crack under the characteristic bulge, left to a sloping crack and further to the 1st ring. (By building/aiding) onto a small platform and through the corner along the crack to the 2nd ring. Up and traverse left to the beginning of a wide crack. Along it to the summit.
L. Vodháněl - J. Janků (1954): We ascend the crack that divides the gently sloping northeast face under the overhang (belay knot). Now, with extreme difficulty, we traverse left using slight holds to the ring. The traverse to the ring is the key to the wall. After overcoming the smooth wall above the ring, we continue along a sharp notch upwards to a narrow platform (belay loop) and further along a narrow corner crack to the second ring. From there, we continue higher to a small balcony in the upper part of the wall, where we climb through a horizontal tunnel to the left into a crack, and along this crack, we complete the ascent.
L. Vodháněl - J. Janků (1954): We ascend the crack that divides the gently sloping northeast face under the overhang (belay knot). Now, with extreme difficulty, we traverse left using slight holds to the ring. The traverse to the ring is the key to the wall. After overcoming the smooth wall above the ring, we continue along a sharp notch upwards to a narrow platform (belay loop) and further along a narrow corner crack to the second ring. From there, we continue higher to a small balcony in the upper part of the wall, where we climb through a horizontal tunnel to the left into a crack, and along this crack, we complete the ascent.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP authority CHKO Český Ráj
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
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