Kauschkova hrana, Dračí zub 7

Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise, Hruboskalsko centre, Dračí skály, Dračí zub

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall

Overview

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Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 7

Climbing season

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Difficulty

Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay Vertical wall

Location

50.54763, 15.19494

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Along the crack up into the tunnel, passage, and from the SE to the fore-summit. Traverse right into the NE wall (1st ring). Along the notch over the overhang left behind the edge and over broken slabs to the recess below the summit overhang to the hourglasses. Left to the 2nd ring and to the summit. L. Vodháněl - J. Janků (1954): Start on the short northeast wall into a tunnel, which we pass through. Then, on the south wall, we ascend to a small fore-summit. We continue diagonally right to the eastern edge to the first ring in the northeast wall, and with a very difficult traverse left behind the edge to a larger outcrop (sling). From there, we climb up on large but broken holds. Higher up, we cross diagonally right to the edge (sling) and along it up to the enormous hourglasses in the northeast wall. From the hourglasses, we traverse on solid rock to the left to the 2nd ring. From there, straight up and along a sloping gully leading left to the summit.

Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority of Nature Conservation Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP authority CHKO Český Ráj

Chalk is banned.
No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
Abseil only from fixed anchors.
Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.