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Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 4

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Difficulty
4
Rock Climbing
Location

49.71477, 15.71378

**Martinův žlábek (Martin's Gully)** is a highly regarded classic climb graded IV (UIAA) situated within the dramatic **Galerie** rock formation. This route offers a quintessential traditional climbing experience, challenging climbers with its unique characteristics and exposed nature.

The ascent typically follows a distinct gully or chimney system, which can often be damp or even wet in its lower pitches, adding to the technical challenge. As one climbs higher, the route might transition to more exposed slabs, corners, or steep cracks, requiring a versatile climbing technique including bridging, jamming, and precise footwork.

Protection, while generally adequate, can be spaced out in sections, demanding confidence in one's leading abilities and judicious gear placement. The rock quality is typically sound, characteristic of the area.

Upon reaching the summit or the top of the route, climbers are rewarded with expansive, breathtaking views of the surrounding mountainous landscape. The descent from 'Martinův žlábek' often involves a combination of rappels (abseiling) down a designated line or a nearby route, possibly followed by a scramble or walk-off back to the base, depending on the specific mountain and access points. This return journey itself can be an adventure, reinforcing the wild character of the climb.

It's a truly memorable and rewarding climb, a must-do for those seeking a true alpine challenge at this grade.
Rules

The Doubrava valley is a protected area. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

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