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Grohmann-Hainz Führe 2019 - Große Zinne Südpfeiler

Italy | Trentino-South Tyrol | Dolomites | Große Zinne

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Overview

Grade: 5-

Total time: 11 hrs

Climbing time: 8 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 25 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 1,050m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 12

The Grohmann-Hainz Führe, located on the imposing South Pillar of the Große Zinne (Cima Grande di Lavaredo) in the Dolomites, is a true classic of moderate alpine climbing. Graded V- (UIAA), this route offers a significant challenge for climbers seeking a traditional multi-pitch experience in a breathtaking high-alpine environment.

First ascended in 1908 by Theodor Grohmann and Michael Hainz, it was an early testament to the pioneering spirit of Dolomite alpinism. The '2019' in its name likely refers to a recent modernization effort, where some sections might have been re-equipped, making it safer but not diminishing its alpine character.

The climbing primarily follows cracks, chimneys, and ledges on generally solid, but often wet or loose, Dolomitic limestone. While the grade of V- might seem moderate by modern sport climbing standards, it demands respect. Pitches are long, protection can be sparse, and route-finding skills are crucial. Exposure is immense, especially as you gain height, offering spectacular views of the surrounding Cadini and Cristallo groups.

Climbers often encounter wet sections, particularly in the chimneys, and some pitches can feel run-out between fixed pitons. The overall alpine ambiance means weather changes can be swift and severe, and rockfall is always a consideration. This route is not for beginners. It requires solid multi-pitch leading experience, proficiency in placing traditional protection, and a strong head for exposure and commitment. A swift ascent and efficient rope management are vital given the length and alpine nature.

Despite its challenges, the Grohmann-Hainz Führe remains a highly rewarding ascent, a historical journey up one of the most iconic mountains in the Alps, offering an unforgettable taste of classic Dolomite climbing.

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