Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Lešetínský traverz, Hlavní stěna 5

Czech Republic, Bohemian-Moravian Highlands, Žďár Hills, Rozštípená skála, Hlavní stěna

5

Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall

Overview
Suggest changes

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 5

Climbing season

Restrictions in 2 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Log ascent Suggest a topo Suggest changes
Difficulty
5
Length
20 m
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow Vertical wall
Location

49.56763, 15.88016

Navigate Navigate to the climb Google Mapy

Parking 603 m

49.56792, 15.88850

Google Waze
Up the overhanging chimney, step left and onto the small balcony. Hard going upwards under the band of overhangs, here

a) Traverse left and where the overhangs end, over their edge.

b) Kovář's Shortcut 5-
Over the overhang to the right and up the wall along the crack.
F. Trefulka Jan 6, 1993

c) Watch out for your nuts 6
From the 1st protection point of the Lešetín Traverse, upwards over the small overhang, through the middle of the wall and an overhanging wall to the edge. To the right of it into Kovář's Shortcut.
J. Bořecký, J. Novotný (with top rope/fixed rope) Aug 22, 2004

Discover Lešetínský traverz, a climbing route rated 5. The total length of this route is 20 meters. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Lešetínský traverz.

Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Permit 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature conservation document: Permit 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

Weather forecast

Live 3-day weather forecast for this place and an estimate of whether the rock is dry enough to climb today, updated every hour.

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Find a climbing partner
Find a climbing partner
Author

F. Čermák

J. Palán

Similar routes nearby (around grade 5)
5
Východní stěna
Along the left overhanging edge of the chimney, slightly to the right and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mechová stěna
Across the entire Main Wall, there is an approximately 20cm wide vein. We start by the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5
Mechová stěna
Along the arched edge of the block over a small overhang (loose rock) to a window and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mechová stěna
Up the right edge of the Moss Wall, laboriously to the ledge, over the overhang and along… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5
Východní stěna
From the hole, over the overhang (bolt), using a heel hook onto the face (bolt), and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Východní stěna
Up a prominent wall with horizontal cracks below an overhang, then traversing right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Other climbing routes in Hlavní stěna
6
Hlavní stěna
To the right of the chimney, with difficulty over an indistinct block, along a rounded… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hlavní stěna
Over the wall under the overhangs, slightly to the right, heavily over them and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5
Hlavní stěna
The overhang of the Main Wall is cut by a vertical crack. Difficultly over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hlavní stěna
With difficulty over the small overhang into the smooth slab, then over a larger overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Hlavní stěna
Start into the overhang from the right, from the block in the recess. Traverse left in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hlavní stěna
Between the Železná and Matlafika routes, with a tricky traverse under the overhang,… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavní stěna
From under the large overhang on the right, very forcefully over it onto the ledge, along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
3-
Hlavní stěna
From the front onto the block below the chimney, which is closed at the bottom by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
5-
Hlavní stěna
Ascent from the right onto the block, across the overhang, along an indistinct edge into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Hlavní stěna
Hard going over overhangs into the wall to the left of two prominent rock teeth, above… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1