Overview
Last updated 2024-05-11
Grade 5
Climbing season
Restrictions in 2 month(s)
- Open
- Restricted
- Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community
Help improve this page
No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.
Difficulty
5
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow Overhang
Over the overhanging wall, under the overhang, to the horizontal crack. Then traverse left along it and up the wall to a ledge. Up a subtle depression to the edge of the band of overhangs (here the route connects with the Lešetín Traverse, variant a) and to the summit.
Ascent variants: 6-
Over the overhangs directly and with difficulty to the end of the traverse.
T. Kastner, T. Lazar- S. Kuba 30. 5. 1981
Over the overhang to the middle of the traverse VII-, A0 (piton)
From the left to the crack VII-
Pavel Novák
Ascent variants: 6-
Over the overhangs directly and with difficulty to the end of the traverse.
T. Kastner, T. Lazar- S. Kuba 30. 5. 1981
Over the overhang to the middle of the traverse VII-, A0 (piton)
From the left to the crack VII-
Pavel Novák
Rules
Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Permit 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibitedNature conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature conservation document: Permit 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy
Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.
Weather forecast
Live 3-day weather forecast for this place and an estimate of whether the rock is dry enough to climb today, updated every hour.
Current conditions
No condition reports in the last 30 days.
No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.
Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
Sign In to Log AscentNobody to climb with?
Similar routes nearby (around grade 5)
5
Samotář
Along the left overhanging edge of the chimney, slightly to the right and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žíla
Across the entire Main Wall, there is an approximately 20cm wide vein. We start by the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5
Rošťanda (Podzimní slunce)
Along the arched edge of the block over a small overhang (loose rock) to a window and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hrana hezouna
Up the right edge of the Moss Wall, laboriously to the ledge, over the overhang and along… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
5
Pepinův převis
From the hole, over the overhang (bolt), using a heel hook onto the face (bolt), and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Markétka
Up a prominent wall with horizontal cracks below an overhang, then traversing right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Other climbing routes in Hlavní stěna
6
Hrana díků
To the right of the chimney, with difficulty over an indistinct block, along a rounded… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Kamenolom
Over the wall under the overhangs, slightly to the right, heavily over them and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5
Cesta griplů
The overhang of the Main Wall is cut by a vertical crack. Difficultly over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Cesta stínů
With difficulty over the small overhang into the smooth slab, then over a larger overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Železná
Start into the overhang from the right, from the block in the recess. Traverse left in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Žďasácká
Between the Železná and Matlafika routes, with a tricky traverse under the overhang,… Rock Climbing
4+
Matlafika se šudlajdou
From under the large overhang on the right, very forcefully over it onto the ledge, along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
3-
Kvakim
From the front onto the block below the chimney, which is closed at the bottom by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
5-
Učňovská hrana
Ascent from the right onto the block, across the overhang, along an indistinct edge into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Študácká
Hard going over overhangs into the wall to the left of two prominent rock teeth, above… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1