Dir. West

Climbing 'Dir. West' (graded 8-/8, UIAA) on the Hochschwab Group is a committing and rewarding experience. This route, whose full name is Direkte Westverschneidung, is a classic, offering sustained, demanding climbing on solid limestone. The rock quality is generally excellent, though expect some polished sections, especially in the lower pitches. The route follows a striking dihedral, providing exposure and stunning views.

Expect sustained technical face climbing and powerful moves, requiring solid finger strength and precise footwork. Protection is typically good, with bolts spaced reasonably apart, but bringing a small rack of cams and nuts is recommended to supplement the fixed gear, especially for potentially run-out sections. Careful route finding is crucial, particularly higher up, where the dihedral fades and the route traverses onto the face. The descent is usually done via abseiling the route, so bringing a 60m rope is essential. Climbers should be comfortable leading at the stated grade and have experience with alpine multi-pitch routes. Due to its popularity, expect potential queues, especially during peak season. Preparation, good physical condition, and careful planning are key to a safe and enjoyable ascent of 'Dir. West'.

Location