Nightmare

Climbing 'Nightmare' (Alptraum), graded UIAA VIII- (8-), in the majestic Hochschwab Group of Austria is an unforgettable alpine rock experience. First ascended by Adi Stöhr and Sepp Innerhofer in the late 1970s, this route is a true test of technical skill and mental fortitude, typically comprising 6-7 pitches of sustained, technical climbing on superb grey limestone.

The approach itself is scenic but demanding, leading to the impressive base of the steep wall. From the very first pitches, 'Nightmare' lives up to its name, immediately setting the tone with demands for precise footwork and a cool head. The crux pitches, often found in the middle section, involve delicate slab climbing interspersed with powerful overhangs, always with incredible exposure. The rock quality is generally excellent, offering solid holds and good friction, a crucial factor when the moves are sustained and intricate. As you ascend, the exposure grows with each meter, providing breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Hochschwab landscape, a constant reward that makes the exertion worthwhile.

Reaching the top, the sense of accomplishment is immense – a culmination of hours of intense focus, physical effort, and navigating complex terrain. The descent, often via a series of careful rappels, requires equal attention. 'Nightmare' is not just a climb; it's an immersive high-alpine adventure that pushes boundaries and leaves a lasting impression of challenge met and overcome.

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