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Cirettissima - Hochtausing Südwand

Austria | Upper Austria | Totes Gebirge | Hochtausing

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Overview

Grade: 6/6+

Total time: 6 hrs

Climbing time: 4 hrs

Approach time: 1 hour

Exit time: 45 mins

Length: 545m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 14

The 'Cirettissima' on the South Face (Südwand) of Hochtausing is a revered alpine classic, graded a sustained 6/6+ (UIAA). This route embodies the true spirit of traditional multi-pitch climbing in the Austrian Alps, offering a profound and demanding experience.

The Südwand itself is an imposing and highly exposed face, bathed in sun but demanding full commitment. The Cirettissima intricately weaves its way up through a series of steep, often smooth slabs, technical cracks, and occasionally more overhanging sections. The rock quality is predominantly excellent limestone, providing solid holds and friction, yet, as an alpine route, one must always be prepared for some loose rock and the need for meticulous route finding.

The 6/6+ grade is a testament not just to individual difficult moves, but to the sustained technicality across many pitches. Climbers need exceptional stamina, precise footwork, and a strong mental game to manage the exposure and length of the climb. Each pitch presents its unique challenges, pushing both physical and mental limits.

Beyond the pure climbing, the 'Cirettissima' offers an unforgettable journey. The panoramic views that unfold with every gained meter are simply breathtaking, stretching across the surrounding peaks and valleys. Reaching the summit of Hochtausing after such an ascent is an immensely rewarding feeling of accomplishment and connection with the mountains. The descent, often involving a mix of rappels and navigating broken alpine terrain, is an integral and demanding part of the overall adventure.

This route is not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced. It requires solid alpine experience, strong lead climbing skills, efficient rope management, and a high degree of self-reliance. For those well-prepared, the 'Cirettissima' on the Hochtausing Südwand is an quintessential alpine rock climb – a true test of skill, courage, and partnership that leaves an indelible mark.

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