Kameradschaft - Hohe Wand

The "Kameradschaft" is a newly established alpine-style climbing route on the Hohe Wand in the Gutensteiner Alps, Austria. First ascended in May 2023 by Kilian Lommer and Jakob Scheler, this route offers climbers a blend of technical challenges and scenic beauty.

Route Overview:

• Difficulty: The route is rated 6 (UIAA), with an obligatory 5+ (UIAA) difficulty, indicating a moderate level of challenge suitable for climbers with intermediate experience.

  
  

• Length: Approximately 140 meters of climbing, divided into five pitches.

  
  

• Climbing Duration: Typically completed in around 3 hours, depending on the climber's experience and conditions.

  
  

• Approach: The approach involves a 15-minute hike from the parking area to the base of the route.

  
  

Route Characteristics:

"Kameradschaft" features well-protected climbing with bolts, offering a mix of technical sections and enjoyable passages. The route is characterized by a large "rain gutter" feature and ends just before an overhanging section.

Equipment and Safety:

Climbers should be equipped with standard multi-pitch climbing gear, including:

• Helmet and Harness: Essential for safety.

• 50-meter Single Rope: Suitable for the route's length.

• 10 Quickdraws: For the bolted sections.

The route is well-protected with bolts, but climbers should have prior experience with multi-pitch climbing and be prepared for variable weather conditions.

Descent:

After completing the climb, descend via abseiling over the route using a 70-meter single rope or double ropes. Be cautious of potential rockfall, especially in the second pitch area where the route crosses a scree-filled gully.

Additional Information:

The Hohe Wand area offers several climbing routes suitable for various skill levels. For those interested in exploring more, the "Gebirgsvereins Klettersteig" is another popular climb in the area.

Climbing 'Kameradschaft' (Grade 6 UIAA) on Hohe Wand is a classic and rewarding experience for intermediate climbers. The route is known for its sustained difficulty, requiring solid technique and good stamina. Expect varied climbing styles, including face climbing, traversing, and some steeper sections that demand precise footwork.

A key element of 'Kameradschaft' is its exposure. The route offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, but also leaves you feeling the height. Good head for heights and confidence on airy traverses are essential.

Protection is generally good, with bolts well-placed throughout the route, but some sections may require longer runouts, demanding careful route-finding and secure placements. The rock quality is generally reliable, but it's always advisable to check holds before committing to them.

'Kameradschaft' is a popular route, so be prepared for potential queues, especially on weekends. Starting early is recommended to avoid crowds and ensure a more enjoyable climb. Overall, 'Kameradschaft' is a challenging but ultimately satisfying climb that offers a great sense of accomplishment and a memorable experience on Hohe Wand.

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