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Šprotoplazma, Hraniční jehla 7-/7

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 16. U hranic, Hraniční jehla

7-/7

Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Danger, Overhang

Last updated 2024-05-12

Grade 7-/7

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
7-/7
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay Danger Overhang
Location

50.85964, 14.22011

Parking 1.9 km

50.84315, 14.21647

From the highest point of the gorge on the S side, from the ledge left of the SE pillar, via the 'sokolík' (small pillar/arete) over the 1st BH to the small pillar to the 2nd BH. Up under the block (!) and right to the 3rd BH. Up the wall over the 4th BH to the overhang, over it and slightly left upwards over 2 BH to a ledge (here we cross the traverse of the Smugglers' Route). Up the wall over the 7th BH to the summit for rappelling.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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