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Overview
Grade 6-
Total Time
-
No time duration data available
Via the chimney-like formation of "N. c." to the end and right to the ring. A long traverse right to the 2nd ring. Up, along the notch into the hollow with large hourglasses and up the wall to the right or directly to the 4th ring of "Jeschke's Wall". Through it to the summit.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): We ascend via a short northern crack, as in the normal route, to a small ledge. Further via the "sokolík" and directly up the wall, then higher we turn somewhat to the right to the 1st ring. From the ring, we traverse horizontally to the right with extreme difficulty, still under the overhang, to a small crack, where we descend a bit lower. We continue a few more steps to the right and ascend the wall to reach the 2nd ring. We then proceed up the wall to an oblique ledge, along which we climb up to the right to the enormous hourglasses. Now, pushing off via a shallow chimney crack upwards (also possible to climb the wall to the right of the hourglasses) to the 3rd ring (which is also the last ring of Jeschke's route). From here, the summit is reached as via Jeschke's route.
Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature conservation documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Administration Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area

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Author

F. Funke

K. Seyffert

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