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Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 8-

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Difficulty
8-
Route in shadow
Location

50.12075, 13.43840

Parking 325 m

50.12362, 13.43928

Kapsa, a name whispered among climbers, is home to some truly iconic lines. Among them, 'Sarkafarka,' a formidable 8- route, had been on my tick list for months. Weeks of training, visualizing the intricate sequence of moves, particularly its renowned technical slab and the powerful overhang crux.

On a crisp morning, with the cool air prickling my skin, I tied in. The first few meters flowed smoothly, a warm-up for the challenge ahead. Reaching the slab, delicate footwork was paramount, each minuscule hold demanding precision. Then came the overhang – the route's true test. I took a deep breath, committed, and found the hidden gaston, crimping hard on the barely-there edges. A surge of power propelled me through, one last dynamic move, and then, the satisfying clink of clipping the chains.

Looking down from the top, a mix of exhaustion and euphoria washed over me, the breathtaking view of Kapsa unfolding beneath. Lowering down, the adrenaline slowly subsided, leaving behind a profound sense of accomplishment. Sarkafarka isn't just a climb; it's a classic Kapsa test piece, a true benchmark for the grade. I was incredibly proud to have sent it.
Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

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