Overview
Grade: 7+
Total time: 7 hrs
Climbing time: 4 hrs
Approach time: 2 hrs
Exit time: 2 hrs
Climbing the "Direkte - Kleiner Hochgall / Durrer Spitze" (7+) route on the Kleiner Hochgall / Durrer Spitze is a serious undertaking. This route, often translated as "Direct" to the smaller Hochgall, demands a high level of technical proficiency and mental fortitude. Graded at 7+ (in UIAA scale), it presents climbers with sustained sections of steep, technical climbing on often exposed and committing terrain. Expect to encounter challenging moves on less-than-perfect rock, requiring precise footwork, strong fingers, and the ability to read the rock effectively. Protection can be sparse in places, adding to the overall commitment and requiring careful route finding. A well-equipped rack of cams and nuts is essential. The alpine environment itself contributes to the difficulty, with potential for rapid weather changes, exposure to altitude, and objective hazards such as rockfall. This climb is recommended only for experienced climbers comfortable with multi-pitch routes at this grade and in alpine settings. Success on the "Direkte" offers a rewarding sense of accomplishment, earned through demanding physical and mental effort, and the satisfaction of reaching a spectacular summit.
