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Östlicher Nordkantenpfeiler - Koschutnikturm

Austria | Carinthia | Karawanks and Bachergebirge | Koschutnikturm

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Overview

Grade: 5

Total time: 6 hrs

Climbing time: 4 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 320m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 10

The ascent of the 'Östlicher Nordkantenpfeiler' (Eastern North Ridge Pillar) on the Koschutnikturm is considered a true alpine classic, offering a quintessential Karawanken climbing experience. Graded V (UIAA), this route presents sustained and highly engaging climbing on solid, typically grippy limestone. The prominent pillar itself dictates an airy and exposed line, leading directly to the summit. Climbers can anticipate varied pitches, ranging from technical slabs and corners to steeper crack systems, all demanding good technique and a steady nerve. While the individual moves rarely exceed the grade, the continuous nature of the climbing, combined with significant exposure, makes it a serious undertaking. The route finding is generally logical following the pillar, but attention to detail is crucial. Reaching the top offers breathtaking panoramic views across the Julian Alps and the surrounding Karawanken range. It's a highly rewarding climb for those seeking a challenging and aesthetically pleasing alpine adventure, concluding with a careful descent, often involving rappels or a technical traverse.
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