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Overview

Grade: 9/9+

Climbing 'Jak šel Pimpula do služby', graded 9/9+ (UIAA scale), in the 'Království pohádek' (Kingdom of Fairy Tales) sector of the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks in the Czech Republic, is an experience steeped in tradition and demanding a high level of skill and mental fortitude. This route, whose name playfully translates to 'How Pimpula Went to Service' from a beloved Czech fairy tale, embodies the challenging and unique style of Bohemian sandstone climbing.

The Království pohádek itself is an iconic part of this region, characterized by towering, often mushroom-shaped sandstone formations that demand pure traditional climbing – relying solely on natural protection like slings around hourglasses, knotted ropes, and cams, with strict ethical rules against chalk and bolts. The rock quality, while beautiful, requires careful movement and respect for its delicate nature, especially when damp.

'Pimpula', at its demanding 9/9+ grade, presents a formidable challenge even for experienced climbers. It typically involves a mix of delicate friction climbing, technical sequences on small holds, and sometimes airy traverses or run-outs that truly test a climber's nerve. The unique texture of the sandstone, with its often rounded features and sometimes crumbly bits, adds to the complexity and commitment required.

Ascending 'Jak šel Pimpula do služby' is not just a physical feat; it's a journey into the heart of Czech climbing culture. It requires an appreciation for the historical ethics, an ability to read the rock for elusive protection, and the mental resilience to push through demanding sections where falls are often not an option. The exposure and the raw sense of adventure are palpable throughout the climb.

Successfully climbing 'Pimpula' is a significant achievement, marking a climber's mastery of the specific techniques and a deep respect for the unique environment of the Czech sandstone towers. It's more than just a route; it's a testament to bold climbing and a connection to a rich, deeply rooted climbing heritage.

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