Overview
Last updated 2024-03-26
Grade 6
Climbing season
Restrictions in 5 month(s)
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Difficulty
6
Rock Climbing Textile belay
Through the corner into the small cave (holds), along the mossy ledge left into the alcove at the W edge (1st ring). Left behind the edge to the corner balcony (2nd ring) and up under the overhang. Right and along the gully (holds) to the summit.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): The ascent starts in the middle of the southwest face between two small cracks into a cave (belay sling). From there horizontally along the mossy ledge left behind the edge to the first ring. Continue further left behind another edge to the second ring in the northeast face. From there, two difficult steps up the smooth wall under the overhang and around a huge boulder to the right to a shallow crack. On the right side of the crack, ascend the mossy wall to the summit.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): The ascent starts in the middle of the southwest face between two small cracks into a cave (belay sling). From there horizontally along the mossy ledge left behind the edge to the first ring. Continue further left behind another edge to the second ring in the northeast face. From there, two difficult steps up the smooth wall under the overhang and around a huge boulder to the right to a shallow crack. On the right side of the crack, ascend the mossy wall to the summit.
Rules
Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority of Nature Conservation Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP authority CHKO Český Ráj
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
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