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Hufeisenkante - Leobner Mauer

Austria | Styria | Hochschwab Group | Leobner Mauer

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Overview

Grade: 5+

Total time: 6 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 215m

Rope Length: 50m

Climbing the Hufeisenkante (Horseshoe Ridge) on the Leobner Mauer is a classic alpine experience in the Hochschwab region of Austria. Graded at 5+ (UIAA), it offers a demanding yet rewarding climb with stunning views and a true sense of exposure. The route itself follows a prominent, horseshoe-shaped ridge, providing a series of exhilarating pitches, often involving traverses, airy steps, and exposed climbing.

**What to Expect:**

* **Physical Demands:** Be prepared for a long day. The route is not overly technical in the traditional sense, but its length and sustained nature require excellent fitness and stamina. Expect several hours of climbing and scrambling, with approach and descent adding to the overall effort.
* **Mental Fortitude:** The exposure on the Hufeisenkante is considerable. Climbers should be comfortable with heights and possess a calm, focused mindset. Good route-finding skills are also essential, as the route is not always straightforward.
* **Protection:** The route is mostly well-equipped with bolts, but it's crucial to place your own protection in between, using slings, nuts, and cams to supplement the existing gear. Experience in traditional climbing is highly recommended.
* **Scenery:** The views from the ridge are spectacular, encompassing the dramatic landscapes of the Hochschwab massif. On a clear day, you can see for miles across the surrounding mountains and valleys.

**Essential Gear:**

* Climbing shoes
* Harness, helmet, and belay device
* Rope (60m recommended)
* Quickdraws (12-15)
* A selection of slings, nuts, and cams
* First-aid kit
* Enough food and water for a full day
* Appropriate clothing for alpine conditions (weather can change rapidly)

**In Conclusion:**

Climbing the Hufeisenkante on the Leobner Mauer is an unforgettable alpine adventure. It's a climb that demands respect and preparation but rewards climbers with a sense of accomplishment and breathtaking views. If you're an experienced climber looking for a challenging and exposed route in a stunning location, the Hufeisenkante is definitely worth considering.

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