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Kleines Paradies - Höllmauer

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Overview

Grade: 7+

Length: 120m

Climbing 'Kleines Paradies' (Little Paradise) on the Höllmauer in the Gesäuse National Park, Austrian Alps, is an iconic experience for any avid sport climber. Graded 7+ (UIAA VII+), this route lives up to its contrasting name – offering a slice of climbing heaven on what translates to the 'Hell Wall.' It's a true multi-pitch classic, celebrated for its sustained technical climbing on excellent, though often polished, limestone.

The route demands precision, delicate footwork, and a strong grip on small crimps and pockets. Each pitch unfolds with its unique challenges, frequently featuring slightly overhanging sections that test your endurance and problem-solving skills. As you ascend, the exposure becomes increasingly exhilarating, rewarding you with breathtaking panoramic views of the rugged Gesäuse peaks and the verdant Enns valley below.

Successfully topping out on 'Kleines Paradies' is immensely rewarding. It perfectly encapsulates the essence of alpine sport climbing: well-bolted for safety, yet sufficiently demanding to feel like a significant personal achievement. The beautiful irony of finding 'paradise' on the 'hell wall' makes it an unforgettable journey, a true highlight that lingers in your memory.
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