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Licht und Schatten - Festkogel Südwand

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Overview

Grade: 8-

Length: 325m

Climbing "Licht und Schatten" (Light and Shadow) on the Festkogel South Face, graded 8- (UIAA VIII-), is a truly iconic and demanding alpine climbing route located in the majestic Gosaukamm range of the Austrian Dachstein Group. This route is a testament to the challenges of high-alpine rock climbing, combining sustained technical difficulty with significant exposure and the inherent demands of a big mountain environment.

The name itself, "Licht und Schatten," perfectly encapsulates the experience: climbers might find themselves moving from sun-drenched, warm limestone sections into cold, shaded, or wind-exposed pitches, mirroring the constant interplay of conditions throughout a long alpine day. The climbing generally follows excellent rock, characteristic of the Dachstein limestone, but don't be fooled – it demands precise technique, powerful movement, and a strong mental game for its often run-out sections and sustained difficulty.

Conquering "Licht und Schatten" is not just about physical prowess; it requires astute route-finding, efficient rope management, and the ability to remain calm under pressure. The reward for this demanding ascent is immense: breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Gosaukamm peaks, the glistening Dachstein glacier, and the serene Salzkammergut lakes. It's a classic for experienced alpine climbers seeking a profound adventure and a benchmark for those testing their limits in a world-class alpine setting.
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