Overview
Last updated 2024-03-26
Grade 7+/8-
Climbing season
No climbing restrictions found
- Open
- Restricted
- Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community
Help improve this page
No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.
Difficulty
7+/8-
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
From the 3rd ring of the "Magion" route, via a crack over the overhang directly to the 4th ring of the "Magion" route and along it to the top.
Discover Magion direkt, a climbing route rated 7+/8-. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Magion direkt.
Rules
OVK: First ascents only after prior approval by the Bělá area administrator, contact: Jan Krejcar, e-mail: hkrejcar1@seznam.cz
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Weather forecast
Loading Weather...
Current conditions
No condition reports in the last 30 days.
No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.
Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
Sign In to Log AscentNobody to climb with?
Similar routes nearby (around grade 7+/8-)
7+/8-
Varianta „Přes klobouk“
From K "Muchomůrky červené" directly by crack and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Černé silikonové srdce
To the left of the "Valley Route" by wall and crack over a bolt to a ledge, by wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Údolí myšího řevu
In the right part of the SE wall via a crack and overhang (K). Over the overhang to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Cesta správců skal - var. Bílý hřích
Along the S edge directly to the clocks of the original route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Východní stěnka
From the bivouac up the middle of the eastern wall (to the right of the notch) to the top… Rock Climbing
7
Hladomorna
Through the right part of the N wall of the central pillar along a triangular break, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Other climbing routes in Masiv KPH
4
Jižní komín
Completely to the left in the south wall, via a chimney through the constriction to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sima-sala-bim
From the balcony in the SW wall, right into the corner of the route "Divine Singer" and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Božský pěvec Milan
In the left part of the valley wall over 2 rings to the ledge, further via a small corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Fompeho AZ-Kvíz
Via cracks in the valley wall to the ledge at the 1st ring, up the wall and via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Magion
Up the center of the valley wall (2 rings) to the ledge (clocks), left along a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Magické oko
As the "Magion" route to the shelf to the clock. Right wall (circle) under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lednové tango
In the right part of the valley wall, through the chimney over an overgrown step and onto… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Přímá varianta (Osudná keška)
Along the edge and wall (K) to 1st K Heavenly Gate and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Nebeská brána
Through the chimney in the valley wall about 8m up to a shelf (SM), traverse left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1