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Cresta Sud Südgrat - Monte Castello di Gaino

Italy | Trentino-South Tyrol | Lake Garda Mountains | Monte Castello di Gaino

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Overview

Grade: 3-/3

Total time: 5 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 1 hour

Exit time: 30 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 650m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 6

Climbing the Cresta Sud Südgrat on Monte Castello di Gaino is a rewarding experience for climbers seeking a moderate alpine adventure. This route, generally graded at 3-/3 (UIAA), offers a mix of scrambling, easy rock climbing, and stunning views over Lake Garda. The rock is typically solid limestone, providing good friction and reliable holds. The route follows the obvious south ridge (Südgrat) of Monte Castello di Gaino, requiring careful route finding in places but generally staying close to the crest. Protection is generally good, with opportunities for placing cams and nuts, though some sections may be runout. Climbers should be comfortable with exposed positions and have experience in placing their own gear. The descent usually involves hiking down a marked trail, making for a full and satisfying day in the mountains. Remember to check weather conditions before heading out, as the lake's proximity can influence the weather dramatically.

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