Overview
Last updated 2024-05-12
Grade 6
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Difficulty
6
Route on sun
Climbing "Krváček" (grade 6) in "Mučírna" (meaning "Torture Chamber") is a truly memorable experience. The name itself hints at the demanding nature of this route. "Mučírna" is known for its steep walls and challenging holds, and "Krváček" lives up to this reputation.
The initial moves involve delicate footwork and precise hand placements to overcome a slightly overhanging section. You'll need to maintain good body tension and focus to avoid barn-dooring. As you progress, the holds become smaller and more crimpy, requiring significant finger strength and endurance. A crucial rest point might be found mid-way, but even this requires careful positioning. The final section involves a sustained pull, often requiring a powerful move to reach the anchor.
Successfully topping out "Krváček" provides a real sense of accomplishment. It's a climb that demands respect and careful planning, and is a worthy challenge for any climber operating comfortably at the grade. Be prepared for a pump and potentially some skin loss, but the satisfaction of conquering this route is well worth the effort.
The initial moves involve delicate footwork and precise hand placements to overcome a slightly overhanging section. You'll need to maintain good body tension and focus to avoid barn-dooring. As you progress, the holds become smaller and more crimpy, requiring significant finger strength and endurance. A crucial rest point might be found mid-way, but even this requires careful positioning. The final section involves a sustained pull, often requiring a powerful move to reach the anchor.
Successfully topping out "Krváček" provides a real sense of accomplishment. It's a climb that demands respect and careful planning, and is a worthy challenge for any climber operating comfortably at the grade. Be prepared for a pump and potentially some skin loss, but the satisfaction of conquering this route is well worth the effort.
Rules
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.
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